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A History in the Making

New York’s East Harlem is a unique jewel on the island of Manhattan. Over the decades countless immigrants have called it home. It’s cultural character, like its inhabitants, is a living force that changes over time. Today, it is home to an increasingly varied mix of people, many of whom are Spanish-speaking immigrants from Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, Mexico and, most recently, Central America.

Ten years ago, on the corner of 106th Street and Third Avenue in the heart of East Harlem (known to us locals as ‘El Barrio’), you would have found a small luncheonette called ‘George & Ginas'. Virgenes Diaz, or ‘Gina’ as she was affectionately known, had owned several successful eateries in the neighborhood. But it was this one – her last one – which would become the East Harlem icon that today is known as La Fonda Boricua.

George and Gina’s became La Fonda Boricua in 1996 when then-CUNY graduate student, Jorge Ayala, purchased the quiet lunch spot and turned it into a vibrant local favorite. Working closely with his kitchen crew, Jorge preserved many of the restaurant’s traditional dishes and added a few of his own. He received original art contributions from such accomplished Puerto Rican artists as Diogenes Ballester, Fernando Salicrup and Jose Morales. Then half its current size, La Fonda Boricua would become a favorite among local residents and citywide Latinos who hungered for a tasteful environment where their food and culture could proudly take center stage.

In 2000, the stage widened, when Jorge’s brother Roberto arrived from Puerto Rico to help him expand the business. The two brothers would prove an excellent team, doubling the size of La Fonda in a year, and adding a robust catering service component to their young business.

While it is true that many celebrities have been to The Fonda – celebrities like Mark Anthony; Former Miss Universe, Denise Quiñones; Willie Colón; Poncho Sanchez; Ray Barretto; and even the former Governor of Puerto Rico, Sila Calderon – the Ayala Brothers know that the strength of their business comes from the wonderful people of El Barrio. It is they who have made La Fonda the success it is today, and it is they who have kept the brothers focused, inspired and motivated all these years.

Currently, the Ayala Brothers are gearing up for the next phase: The Fonda Boricua Lounge, a café, bar and performance hall which will soon open right across the street from the Fonda. Space at the Lounge will also be available for functions like wedding receptions, private parties, and other ceremonies. The Lounge promises to be the crowning jewel of a multi-faceted enterprise that continues to draw its strength and pride from the community it serves.

So if you’ve never been, I hope you’ll stop by soon for a true taste of Puerto Rican hospitality in the historic neighborhood of East Harlem. And if you are already a loyal and regular customer, I’ve got good news for you too: The best is yet to come.

Miguel Redd
NUYORICO.COM